Door adjustment


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pauldee
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Door adjustment

Post by pauldee » Wed Sep 11, 2013 1:13 pm

I read a lot about people adjusting how their doors hang and getting their gaps just right, but I can't really find any guidance on how to do this. Bits I've read seem to suggest you can adjust the hinges. I've take them off (removed hinges from A post) and put them on and they seem to go back in the exact same place but I can't seem to adjust them.

The doors shut sort of flush at the moment but there's been one or possibly more knocks along the way, a bad dog leg repair, possibly a b pillar repair, and I'm going to have to straighten some things up but this will mean the door as it will no longer sit flush.

I'll post some pics at some point to show the problems but for now if someone could explain how to shift the doors about or point me in the direction of a tutorial that would be ace.

Cheers,
Paul
69 Early Bay 'Thurston'
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ziggy
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by ziggy » Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:02 pm

You can adjust the doors by moving the the locking catch which will pull the door in and out.

If they have dropped or have worn hinges then changing your mirror arm to a larger diameter which will take up the slack.
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by maddison » Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:09 pm

hinges to body have sideways adjustment

moving them IN moves the door BACK...i.e reduces the gap between the door and the B pillar
Moving them OUT increase the gap at the Bpillar

using a combination of the x2 above changes the angle of the door


using a mallet handle between the hinge and opening and closing the door on the handle Drastically moves the entire door forward INCREASING the gap to the Bpillar if the hinge adjustment wasnt enough
opening the door wide open and gently bouncing it to the point it doesnt want to open any more Moves the door back DECREASING the gap at the B pillar if the hinge adjustment wasnt enough

combination of all the above should get the door sitting pretty straight, but may never sit 'right' if you doglegs A pillar or B pillar are out, you may have to settle for a middle ground

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Re: Door adjustment

Post by maddison » Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:12 pm

...in reality, you can do all the adjustment with the mallet hammer without touching the hinge bolts


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pauldee
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by pauldee » Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:20 pm

Cheers madison, not sure exactly what you mean but it may become clear next time I'm looking at a hinge.

Is it possible to move the door so it's more or less closed (if you get what I mean)?

The bus seems quite straight along the swage be seems wrong along the dog leg. However, the door seems to have been adjusted to fit with this. If I sort this out, I'm worried thatit will end up more closed at the bottom than the top, and I'd need to adjust this.
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ted698
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by ted698 » Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:25 pm

Hmm - what about getting the door to shut flush along the B pillar - even if the latch is as far in as it will go, the rear edge still sticks out a few mm. Even slamming the door as hard as possible to get it to latch won't sit flush, even with all the seals off.
Particularly bad along the dog leg curves on the door... it seems to be exacerbated here.

I don't get the slide body to hinge in/out to increase door/B pillar gap - *surely* this increases the top/bottom tilt alignment of the door.
I can see that expanding or contracting the hinge gap with a hammer handle will increase or decrease the shut gap - not sliding hinge in/out?

Fully prepared to be wrong though ;) I've spent hours on mine trying to get the doors to fit better.

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Re: Door adjustment

Post by maddison » Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:36 pm

..cos the hinge isnt sitting at a 90 degree angle the plane of the door...more like 120 degrees (or whatever it is) moving both hinges in and out moves the entire door backwards or forwards

moving 1...or the other....or both in opposite directions tilts the entire door (depending on the configuration of hinge movements)


& ted, back to your latch issue, have you tried actually moving the latch out **sounds weird...i know...but try it, what have you got to lose
(your door latch has 2 parks , a prelimary one and the main 'closed' push your striker plate too far in and the latch struggles to even make the 1st park engage
Move your striker all the way OUT and you should find your door shuts really easily on the 1st park, give it a good slam and it should engage the 2nd main latch (and be pretty much in line)

unless your bus has had a serious whacking, you shouldnt ever really need to move your striker plate inwards, maybe a tiny tap in and out for really fine adjustment...but never as far in as it will go... it should mainly be used for UP & DOWN adjustment


try moving it back out and see how that works for you
(its always EASIER to get your doors lined up nice with the top frame OFF...its not the BEST way, but its the EASIEST way, once you have everything how you want it...mark your hinge position, pop the door back off, refit the top frame and remount in the same position

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Re: Door adjustment

Post by ziggy » Thu Sep 12, 2013 7:05 am

maddison wrote:hinges to body have sideways adjustment

moving them IN moves the door BACK...i.e reduces the gap between the door and the B pillar
Moving them OUT increase the gap at the Bpillar

using a combination of the x2 above changes the angle of the door


using a mallet handle between the hinge and opening and closing the door on the handle Drastically moves the entire door forward INCREASING the gap to the Bpillar if the hinge adjustment wasnt enough
opening the door wide open and gently bouncing it to the point it doesnt want to open any more Moves the door back DECREASING the gap at the B pillar if the hinge adjustment wasnt enough

combination of all the above should get the door sitting pretty straight, but may never sit 'right' if you doglegs A pillar or B pillar are out, you may have to settle for a middle ground
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by pauldee » Thu Sep 12, 2013 7:33 am

If anyone has any photos, it would be massively helpful. Even the Bentley manual is useless and just states 'the hinges can be adjusted'. Fat waste of £50 that was.
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by maddison » Thu Sep 12, 2013 8:54 am

it isnt really something thats ever described in a step by step tutorial....as its specific to the door / hinge type, etc etc....its like panel beating, you learn it by doing it, there are few basic rules , but much easier to be shown, than described...or trial & error


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pauldee
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by pauldee » Thu Sep 12, 2013 10:16 am

Cheers for your help people, I guess I'm going to have to find someone local to me who's doing this so I can watch and learn.

So anyone in the Manchester area?
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by OLD BUG RACER » Mon Nov 20, 2017 7:08 am

This is an old thread but wondered if anyone has used the handle technique to any degree of success.
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Re: Door adjustment

Post by SplitMind » Mon Nov 20, 2017 11:28 am

maddison wrote:
Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:09 pm
using a mallet handle between the hinge and opening and closing the door on the handle
X2 on the request for any more info on this - I'm not even sure where maddison in putting the mallet handle... 8O

I'm struggling to get good alignment before welding on a new dog leg and been trawling posts for a few days, so really interested if anyone can explain this method ^^

Thanks!


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Re: Door adjustment

Post by ted698 » Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:26 pm

Maddison is putting the mallet handle in between the two hinge halves as he is shutting the door - i.e you are pinching the mallet handle in the hinge and bounce the door as if shutting gently

Be very careful though! As this can have a big effect....


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Re: Door adjustment

Post by SplitMind » Mon Nov 20, 2017 8:11 pm

So using momentum and the weight of the door to bend things into shape - presumably the first thing to bend will be where the hinge bolts onto the door, since even with the strengthener plate this will bend more readily than the 4-5mm thick hinge or the A-post...and this is done cold....?

I've read some other posts about heating and bending the hinge - obviously only an option before painting - but since I don't have access to an oxy torch this may be a better route for me....a little at a time of course!

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