Engine Rebuild Time ???

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cyclosport
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Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by cyclosport »

Went on a log trip recently in the hot weather and engine temperature got too hot (110C) and whilst I tried to pull over.

At one point on the M4 - I couldn't stop had to slow down and limp to the next sevice station.

Kept it topped up with oil and tried to keep it as cool as I could but it started making a knocking noise.

Now when I start it up I've got a cloud of white smoke and there are spots of oil coming out of the exhaust too.

Sounds like I've worn the engine and probably a good idea not to drive it and think about a rebuild?

Anyone got any advice?

massivesplitproject
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by massivesplitproject »

that temp is normal dude i would of said, but yeah sounds like time for a build

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cyclosport
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by cyclosport »

Thanks Dude.

It's the first time its got that hot and it's obviously worn the engine. Normally it would be around 90C tops.

I've been advised not to drive it, as it could wreck the whole engine.

I guess I've got 2 options:

Rebuild it from a 1541 to a 1641 with a progressive carb and a large external oil cooler so I can use it in the summer on hills OR

forget Air Cooled altogether and go for Subaru power

At the end of the day we want to use it to go on holiday and hopefully travel round Europe one day.

The current 1541 isn't up to it, on a hill I was doing around 35 mph, which on the motorway was bordering on dangerous.

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cyclosport
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by cyclosport »

Probably best not go down the Subaru route as advised, due to the EU laws and classic car modification laws coming our way ...

Looks like it's 1641 barrels and pistons, better carb and an external oil cooler.

:D

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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by Sweet Rides »

If you want it to run cool then don`t bother with the 1641. It`s a scam. Adds such a minimal power gain it`s barely noticable but what is noticable is the extra temps generated by the very thin cylinder walls... :evil:

Stick with a 1600. Single port is my preference for a bus as they are more torquey, but the DP motors are still very good, more easy to locate and have a bit more horsepower if that`s your thing. Fit a late doghouse fanshroud and oil cooler set up and you`ll have much better cooling. External oil cooler is a total overkill on a stock motor.

If you want a bigger motor then go 1776 with a set of small twincarbs such as 34 weber itcs (or smaller 30/32s would be just as good)

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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by monkey knuts »

Take the opportunity to review your whole cooling system.
Is all the tinware in place and fitting correctly?
Are all the seals present?
Flaps and 'stat present and working?
Heat exchangers fully connected?

IMO you have to be meticulous with this air cooled design.
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readyboy61
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by readyboy61 »

Sounds like the barrel is scrored to let the oil past or piston ring damaged, im sure the bottom end will be ok if your lucky :wink: go mild 1776
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by beano »

I'm no expert, but it sound similar symptoms to what mine was doing just before one of the big ends went.

I went the cheap option of a second hand single port 1600 with standard carb.....just serviced it and still going strong 3 years later. In fact I'm in SW France at this very moment!

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cyclosport
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by cyclosport »

Thanks for all the advice. I like the idea of the external doghouse and later fan shroud.

Did a compression test.

Pistons 1 and 2 - 100 psi

Piston 3 -75 psi

Piston 4 - 50psi

So does sound like the piston rings / oil scraper rings knackered .....

Gonna strip the whole engine down soon, hopefully just a top end rebuild, but would really like to have a look and see if there's any wear on the bearings.

I'll post some pics n stuff ....

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cyclosport
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by cyclosport »

Beano - hope your having fun in France 8)

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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by Marvelwear »

Can vouch for 1776 with oil cooler and filter head, pulls like a train and runs cooler.barrels and piston kits not too bad for price, case borings quite reasonable as well.
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cyclosport
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by cyclosport »

Marvelwear wrote:Can vouch for 1776 with oil cooler and filter head, pulls like a train and runs cooler.barrels and piston kits not too bad for price, case borings quite reasonable as well.
Thanks Marvel, that set up sounds like what I'm looking for. Who did you use for case boring by the way? :P

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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by Marvelwear »

Sorted :-)good luck Im sure youll sort it mate.
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cyclosport
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by cyclosport »

Can anyone recommend where I can get my case and heads bored and tapped for full flow?

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BJ1
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Re: Engine Rebuild Time ???

Post by BJ1 »

Good luck if you want to rebuild it yourself, but if you haven't built an engine before my advice is to send it to Laurie Pettitt and get him to rebuild the motor. That will save you time, money and angst. Don't under any circumstances put new barrels and heads on an old bottom end, especially one that's overheated - you will destroy the engine.

Oh yes - even with your rebuilt engine, keep the speed down to around 60 or you will cook it again. If you want to go faster safely it will be a new box and/or wheels, better brakes and steering etc etc. Then you will be able to cruise at 70+ in a 1960's tin box with no crumple zones or side protection :wink:
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