engine blew, but now its ok

This section is for general discussion related to VWs, and air-cooled bits ‘n bats.
Post Reply
User avatar

Topic Author
Don
Registered user
Posts: 128
Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 2:28 pm
Location: southampton, hants

engine blew, but now its ok

Post by Don » Wed Mar 29, 2006 2:51 pm

i was driving along hte M27 a few days ago and my engine began to smoke and loose power, i pulled over and turned key, there was smoke everywhere in the cab, tried to start it and it kinda cranked once or twice then locked tight.

i got a tow home, and tried again, it was locked solid.

went out yesterday to buy a new engine after beeing skiing for the last week, got in the van today and pushed it into my work area, then thought what the heck, ill try to start it.

fired up and hasnt missed abeat since, no smoke, so rattle, revs up fine, appears to have no problems.

now two questions,

1. what the hell could have been up with it in the first place??
2. is it ok to still use it or shall i swap them over still and strip dopwn the old one.

engine is a 1.6 twin port

donnor engien is a 1.3 single port


any help would be great
jsut bout my first camper, a 62 splitty, not bad at jsut turned 21

User avatar

52panelvan
Registered user
Posts: 1235
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:38 am

Post by 52panelvan » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:27 pm

Hi,

I had an engine once that was fine when i turned it off and several hours later it was solid when i went to go home from work. Never to run again.

It has probably overheated and the pistons became stuck in the bores. I would investigate the cooling and thermostat and check the cooling flaps are not stuck shut. Also check to see if a rag or something is lodged in the fan round the back. Double check the fan belt is not slipping or sometimes the generator/ alternator pulley can break up , knock and even though the belt appears tight when still the pulley may be loosing tension when running. If in doubt change the belt as oil can cause them to slip under load. With the belt off check the alternator/ gen with the fan spins freely and is not rubbing anywhere. One thing thats very difficult to check is if a peice of tissue has got passed the fan and landed on the oil cooler inside the fan housing, people sometimes leave bits of kleenex in the bay from checking the oil and it gets sucked through.

If its all fine then..

Redo all the valve clearences, check the timing (very important) and the advance is working ( and make sure the dissy clamp is tight) and carb mixture is ok. Check for air leaks in the inlet usually around the 2 rubbers joining the inlets at the head. make sure there is no rubber seals or tinware missing around the motor.

Change the oil and clean the oil filter. See whats on the filter if there are chunks of metal then something may have failed. Expect to see some small metallic peices but i do mean small. When the oil is in the tray does it have a metallic paint look?

If ok then..

Then leave it idling till very warm. Make sure the thermo has opened and a good air flow is coming over both heads a cylinders both sides. If it sounds ok still and doesnt smoke or become too hot. Give it a a gentle spin round the block and see if its ok.
As a general rule you should be able to touch the dip stick when hot (although sometimes mine has got very very hot and unbareable to touch).

Check that the oil light does not come on when hot, it may flicker on high milage engines or come on but only on a slow idle, it should go out on the touch of the throttle. Its not an ideal indicator of problems.

Check to see how much breathing the engine is doing, its hard to judge but may indicate a broken ring or damaged piston. Again its a bit of guess work. take the oil filler off gently when hot (carefull mind). or sometimes oil coming out of the rocker seals can be from the same problem.

You may get away with it and have no damage, it is more than possible.
If the motor is obviously worn, eg tons of end float then it may be worth pulling it anyway and redoing.


Im not an engine expert other people may have other ideas. Its hard to tell without having it in front of you.

Best of luck



Hope this helps

Mark
Kempes Bus 20-11536

User avatar

Topic Author
Don
Registered user
Posts: 128
Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 2:28 pm
Location: southampton, hants

Post by Don » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:42 pm

ill read that in a sec, jsut goin for tea, but it decide to lock up again so we switched it for the 1300
jsut bout my first camper, a 62 splitty, not bad at jsut turned 21

User avatar

52panelvan
Registered user
Posts: 1235
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:38 am

Post by 52panelvan » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:45 pm

Bugger it then just rebuild it , bigger and better :wink:
Kempes Bus 20-11536

User avatar

Topic Author
Don
Registered user
Posts: 128
Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 2:28 pm
Location: southampton, hants

Post by Don » Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:13 pm

cheers for all the great info man, great read even tho we had already changed the engine, if it everr happens again i can use it, also as i made a good title other useers might find it sometime they need help.

at the mo im deciding weather to rebuild the 1600 or get a 2000cc and fit theat, also looking at a golf gti engine.

if i go a moddern watercooled route, where the hell am i gona put a rad ?

any idea ?
jsut bout my first camper, a 62 splitty, not bad at jsut turned 21

Post Reply